Riana Kelpie Stud

Once I have decided on what dog to mate to a particular bitch, usually as a result of a progeny test of previous litters or based on what lines seem to nick, to produce special progeny.  Then I take special effort to ensure pups result and reach maturity.  Feeding of the mated bitch is carefully monitored.  I supply a good mixed diet of meat and vegetables, with supplements such as Feramo G, being used as well.  Bitches are kept in good condition right through until after pups are weaned.  About 30 days after mating, if the bitch is in pup, she will go off her feed for a day or two.  Take care to find her something that she will eat, as I believe many bitches that fail to have pups, lose them about this time. Increase food as the demands of pregnancy increase, as you are not feeding only the bitch, but the pups as well.Adequate exercise for bitches is essential, as well as mental well being.  I don’t like to work hard, pregnant bitches continually during pregnancy, especially the last 30 days before whelping. All my dogs are wormed regularly, treated for heartworm monthly and done regularly for external parasites such as fleas.  So nothing more has to be done during pregnancy that hasn’t already been done, as normal routine. Bitches are whelped in the type of bitch pen, designed by me.  None of my bitches whelp under buildings or in the dirt.  Many people will not agree with my idea and still let their bitches whelp as they wish. If you get wet weather, storms or other dogs that can get to the pups because they are born under buildings and in burrows, you may loose some or all of the pups. Try to ensure the health and survival of every pup as well as their mother. In a bitch pen such as I use the monitoring of the litter is easy, their condition and health can be assessed quickly and regularly. With young or maiden bitches you can see if they are mothering them well. The first few days before the pups eyes are open is a critical period. In which there is a higher chance of losing them from things that could easily be corrected by you, if the pups are easy to check regularly. Such as crawling away from the mother under a part of the building they are born under and the mother has no chance of getting them back.During mating dogs are with bitches only when I can see they are mated successfully. Dogs are not left in overnight with bitches in season. This is so I can record exactly those days that they actually have mated. Not just when they are in together.  If for some reason a dog does not mate, I know that for sure and can then put that bitch to another dog with certainty.Seven days before they are due to whelp, bitches are placed in the bitch pens, that are set up for them to have pups in.  This lets them settle in and get used to their new accommodation. Also probably just as important it means they will not be born in our normal overnight pens and possibly be injured or lost through the slatted floors In extremely cold weather, an ordinary flood light is hung up in front section of the pen, facing into the back where the bitch and pups are.  A board 7 inches high is set around the bottom , so pups can’t get between the bitch and the cold tin wall at night and freeze. The older bitches have a rail made lip, like sows have in farrowing pens, to stop them from laying on and smothering pups. Especially when they are exhausted from the birth of the pups.  Bags are hung over and down the front, to keep the cold air out, especially in bad windy weather.  It is not airless in the pen as even with bags hanging down and the floodlight on frosty nights, the air can come up through a small section of the front floor near the door.In the summer heat, even where I have my pens, if it is too hot.  Then I use an electric fan to blow over the pups from outside the pen and let them lie on damp bags to cool down. Especially in the critical first few weeks of their life.  Older pups can be given a damp bag to lie on , but check closely as they can be smothered by it. Sometimes the mother will scratches it up and about, allowing the pups to crawl in or under it, smothering them. Feeding of goat’s milk takes place as soon as the pups will lap, usually by the 3rd week.  Mothers are fed as much as they will eat in later pregnancy and after the birth.By their third week pups are fed enough to satisfy them, their mother cleaning up the rest in the shallow bowl you are feeding them in.  As soon as they will eat it, a little boiled rice is given in the milk. We have found that Goats milk at room temperature , not hot and a little boiled rice give the best results and least stomach upsets for baby pups.Powdered milks like Dencavit, pab, etc , are not as good as goat’s milk in my opinion . Divetalac, is good if you can afford it and don’t like milking.  Pals Mince and Veg is a good pellet food for weaned pups, it seems to give them the right calcium etc, to help them grow.Vaccination for Parvo is done as young as possible.  Later boosters for Parvo/ hepatitis/ distemper is given as well at 4 months old. Worming starts at 3rd week and every next week until they are old enough to receive Droncit etc.